Skincare professionals LOVE vitamin C for its ability to reduce redness, heal breakouts, even skin tone, and aid in the healthy aging journey by decreasing fine lines and wrinkles. There are several different derivatives of vitamin C and they all have their time and place in a skincare formulation. Vitamin C is one of the most studied ingredients making it a familiar sighting on the ingredient deck of your favorite product. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that protects against free radical damage, evens skin tone, and is essential for the production of collagen and elastin. Our body does not produce vitamin C on its own so in order to reap the benefits, it needs to be applied topically and consumed in a diet high in fruits and vegetables.
There are several different forms of vitamin C used in skincare and each has unique properties and intended uses within formulations. They vary in potency and targeted results making vitamin C viable for several different skin types and concerns.
The most common form of vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid. This water-soluble, pure form of vitamin C can be highly active making it less suitable for sensitive skin types where irritation may occur. Benefits include reduction in hyperpigmentation, reinforcing the skin’s barrier with protection from environmental stressors, and stimulating collagen & elastin production. Sorella Apothecary’s Cherry Pepper Peel contains a 30% L-ascorbic acid making it perfect for killing any bacteria on the skin and leaving a bright healthy glow.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stabilized form of vitamin C and is unique in the way of being oil-soluble which gives it the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin while being less likely to cause irritation in the process. Once applied to the skin, naturally occurring enzymes convert to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid). An added bonus of formulating with Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is the stability and shelf life. You can get your daily dose of this form of vitamin C with our Pomegranate Acai Antioxidant Serum, Blueberry Milk Moisturizer, or Daily Greens Moisturizer.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a stabilized form of water-soluble vitamin C. Similar to Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, MAP converts into active vitamin C when applied topically enabling the formulation to be less acidic while still providing results for those who may have sensitive skin. MAP is oil-loving which makes it the most hydrating form of vitamin C that can soothe the skin and reduce redness. MAP can be found in Apricot Mango Cleansing Milk and Blueberry Milk Moisturizer.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is another stabilized form of water-soluble vitamin C that converts into L-ascorbic acid once it’s on the skin. SAP is less acidic and more stable than L-ascorbic acid making it great for sensitive skin and rosacea. SAP is antimicrobial making it great for breakout-prone skin with the added benefit of decreasing inflammation.
Vitamin C can be incorporated into multiple parts of your skincare regimen based on your skin type and sensitivity level. Your esthetician will be able to assist you in creating the perfect regimen for YOU! See our spa locator here.